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    <title type="html">Home Brew Bloggers</title>
    <subtitle type="html">Making Homebrew better</subtitle>
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    <updated>2010-03-16T14:56:18Z</updated>
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    <entry>
        <link href="/beer/blogweb/archives/4-How-to-Make-a-Yeast-Starter.html" rel="alternate" title="How to Make a Yeast Starter " />
        <author>
            <name>RV Team</name>
                    </author>
    
        <published>2010-03-16T14:11:25Z</published>
        <updated>2010-03-16T14:56:18Z</updated>
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            <category scheme="/beer/blogweb/categories/2-How-to" label="How to..." term="How to..." />
    
        <id>/beer/blogweb/archives/4-guid.html</id>
        <title type="html">How to Make a Yeast Starter </title>
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                Home brewers are always led to believe making a yeast starter is for the advanced brewer. This<br />
could not be further from the truth. If anything beginning brewers should start with yeast starters. When you think about it they are nothing more than a small extract brew.<br />
<br />
Why make a yeast starter you ask? The list is long but I will hit a few reasons a yeast starter will only better your brew. First off, it will ensure the yeast is alive: no more questions about the viability of the product you just purchased! Yeast starters guarantee an accelerated fermentation. With a fast start to your fermentation, you stop any bacteria from taking over the wort eliminating the chance of an infected batch of beer/wine. Starters allow yeast to multiply - the added yeast cells will help achieve a lower final gravity and avoid stuck fermentations. Making a yeast starter generally allows beer to ferment cooler than suggested by the manufacturer resulting in a cleaner tasting beer.<br />
<br />
What will you need to make a yeast starter? Pretty much the same items used in brewing although I have found a 2000ml Erlenmeyer flask will make the job much easier. The items needed will be a new liquid yeast, thermometer, 1/3-1/2 LB of DME(20% more if using LME) and 1/3-1/2 gallon of water. You will also need a 1/2-1 gallon sanitized container for fermenting. If using the flask, you have your fermenter.<br />
<br />
NOTE: If using 1/3LB DME you will use 1/3 Gallon Water - If using 1/2LB DME use 1/2 Gallon Water. You want a starting gravity of 1.040-45.<br />
<br />
Now what? Well, this is as basic as you get in the brewing world - outside of Mr. Beer. Bring<br />
your water to 170ºF and add your malt extract - if using LME take the pot or flask off the burner<br />
to avoid scorching of your malt. Stir well to dissolve and slowly bring to a boil. Boil for 10<br />
minutes then cool as quickly as possible below 90ºF. I realize this is a bit warm, but we are<br />
generating yeast, not beer. Pitch your yeast into the sanitized container along with your wort.<br />
Allow to ferment for 12-72 hours before your scheduled brew day. You have done nothing<br />
more than make an exaggerated White Labs Vial or Wyeast pack. When ready to pitch, swirl<br />
your starter to get all of your yeast in suspension and pour into your chilled wort-liquid!<br />
 <br />
<a href="http://www.homebrewing.org/yeast_c_1.html?AffId=62">Home Brewing Starter Equipment Kits</a> 
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    <entry>
        <link href="/beer/blogweb/archives/3-How-to-Make-Lager.html" rel="alternate" title="How to Make Lager" />
        <author>
            <name>RV Team</name>
                    </author>
    
        <published>2010-03-16T14:07:22Z</published>
        <updated>2010-03-16T14:56:54Z</updated>
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        <id>/beer/blogweb/archives/3-guid.html</id>
        <title type="html">How to Make Lager</title>
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                How to Make Lager <br />
Lagering is nothing more than COLD STORAGE. Many breweries lager their beers to obtain a more clear final brew. This brew may be a pale ale or a pilsner, when it is stored cold, you are lagering.<br />
<br />
Lager yeasts do react differently than ale yeasts. This is partly because of the type of<br />
yeast it is and also because of the temperature in which you ferment. While most ale yeast go dormant at cool temperature(45ْF - 60ْF), lager yeast will slowly ferment. The cool temperatures also settle the lager yeast (flocculate) to the bottom of your fermenter giving lager yeast the bottom fermenting term.<br />
<br />
Fermenting a lager will require more attention to detail than their ale counterparts. Yeast starters are a must! Adding oxygen and some type of yeast nutrient will also help with your new brewing style. Below you will find a BASIC outline for lager brewing. It will seem tedious, but your time will be rewarded!<br />
<br />
How to Make Lager Beer<br />
1. Build a yeast starter - haven’t done one? Check out our starter page. Keep your yeast starter temps between 60ْF and 75ْF and go large, you need the yeast!<br />
<br />
2. Pitch your yeast in the 60ْF - 65ْF range. When fermentation starts, drop to the recommended temperature of the yeast you are using, this may be as low as 45ْF.<br />
<br />
3. Fermentation should take 2 weeks. After fermentation you will want to raise your temperature as close to 62ْF as possible. This is called a diactyl rest. The increase in temperature will achieve a few things. First, it will assure fermentation is complete. Next, it will drive off any remaining CO2 that might cause “off flavors”. Finally, it will allow the yeast to absorb the diacetyl produced by fermentation.<br />
<br />
4. After two or three days at(or near) 62ْF you will need to rack your beer into a carboy. It is now time to lager. Slowly lower your temperature about 5ْF a day until you hit 35ْF. You can go colder, but watch your temperatures closely. Lagering has begun! Lager for a minumum of six weeks and don’t be shy. It is not uncommon to lager a doppel bock for up to a year!<br />
<br />
The lagering process is where you make your beer cleaner and clearer. It is every bit as important as aging a mead or a barley wine. The cold temperatures will drop any remaining yeast sediment creating a brilliant looking beer. I love the “You made this?” look when serving my latest batch of dortmunder or pils. “How are your beers so clear?” I’ll say with a grin...no secret, lager it!<br />
<br />
 <br />
<a href="http://www.homebrewing.org/yeast_c_1.html?AffId=62">Home Brewing Starter Equipment Kits</a>        
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    </entry>
    <entry>
        <link href="/beer/blogweb/archives/2-My-first-beer-in-six-years!.html" rel="alternate" title="My first beer in six years!" />
        <author>
            <name>RV Team</name>
                    </author>
    
        <published>2009-12-11T17:15:04Z</published>
        <updated>2010-02-25T13:14:44Z</updated>
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        <title type="html">My first beer in six years!</title>
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                Yes, it has been six years since I made my last beer. Why so long? Just busy I guess? I started making beer in 1980. I made all sorts of beer. My neighbors were always knocking on my door. Hey do you have any......beer? I was also teaching others to make beer. I was part of a group that first started the Portland Beer fest.  It was loads of fun at first, all of my neighors and friends wanted to be servers, back then you would get tickets for free beer if you were a server. Then OLCC stuck their nose in it and stopped the fun. One year we ran out of beer on the first day, because so many people showed up.<br />
<br />
Anyhow, that was then. Today I'm doing a Honey raspberry wheat beer. <br />
I'm using 3.3lbs of Wheat malt.<br />
48oz. of Clover Honey<br />
1lbs. of Crystal Malt<br />
4lbs. of frozen raspberries (that we picked this summer)<br />
Cascade hops 2oz. 1 1/2oz. boil, then 1/2oz.  cascade for Finish.<br />
Irish moss<br />
Wyeast Belgian Ale yeast.<br />
<br />
In a brewpot with 2 gallons of water, Boil hops, malt and honey for 45 mins. Add finishing hops and Irish moss boil additional 15 minutes. Add to the carboy, that has 2 gallons of water in it, then add the raspberries.<br />
<br />
I will update this as I continue the process. I think it will be a very good beer!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=115055&u=111323&m=9044&urllink=&afftrack=" title="Brewkit Special">Special 20% off on Brew kits - Limited time</a> 
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        </content>
        
    </entry>
    <entry>
        <link href="/beer/blogweb/archives/1-Introduction-to-Home-Brew-Beer.html" rel="alternate" title="Introduction to Home Brew Beer" />
        <author>
            <name>RV Team</name>
                    </author>
    
        <published>2009-12-09T17:18:31Z</published>
        <updated>2009-12-12T18:22:28Z</updated>
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        <id>/beer/blogweb/archives/1-guid.html</id>
        <title type="html">Introduction to Home Brew Beer</title>
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                <p><b>Homebrewing is the brewing of beer, wine, cider and other beverages, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic, through fermentation on a small scale as a hobby for personal consumption, free distribution at social gatherings, amateur brewing competitions or other non-commercial reasons.</b></p<a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2087357-10368469" target="_blank">As Low As $39.95!</a><img src="http://www.lduhtrp.net/image-2087357-10368469" width="1" height="1" border="0"/> -</strong></p> <br /><a href="/beer/blogweb/archives/1-Introduction-to-Home-Brew-Beer.html#extended">Continue reading "Introduction to Home Brew Beer"</a>
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